~ The last 2 days, I have been in the water without booties. It has been nice, after 2 months, to surf in bare feet again.
Pulling up to have a look at the surf, I spotted this guy in the water. He was a Lifeguard and was on his rescue board, getting wave after wave...in TRUNKS!
The surf continues to be good and I want to thank all of those that have been so helpful to me on this adventure.
I will be continuing down the California Coast and it would be great to say hello and go for a surf. Aloha, mm
~ It is rare to see myself from the other side of the lens. My friend John shot this of his Son and I on our way out for a few waves.
I am now in California and, at least in this part of the State, I am quite far from the things that many consider California to be. Here, there is no Freeway, Strip Mall or Botox. San Francisco is still hours away and there is plenty of room to find a few waves to yourself.
John is an old friend from Maui that has found his own form of paradise right here. He has all that he needs ~ A lovely girlfriend, a great dog, a Son that surfs and a lot of time to enjoy the beautiful isolation this heaven provides.
It has been a great stay. mm